It just so happened that I had to visit Pune for a short trip. I had always known Pune as a town to be passed in transit, either going to Panchgani or a short drive from Khandala. Pune by itself had never really beckoned me. When I found that I was visiting Pune, I thought that I might as well get to know the city a tad bit better. What I found was that Pune is a lovely little city which has retained its antiquity. It is located at the confluence of the Mula and Mutha rivers. In the centre of the city is its nucleus. The localities in the old town are named after the days of the week, so we have Ravivarpeth, Somwarpeth, and so on until Shaniwarpeth. In olden times each place had its market on that particular day of the week, naming the places therefore needed no imagination, and also led to no controversies.
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| Bal Gangadhar Tilak's house. |
There is a feeling of calm in these lanes and roads of Pune. On Lakshmi Road are located most of the traditional jewellery shops. The jewellery of Pune is quite distinct and pretty. The tanmani, the goph and the typical nose rings are pretty. Pearls are used in abundance.
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| The typical nath( nose ring) |
Pune is near Shivneri Fort where Shivaji was born. Maloji Bhonsale was a Maratha Sardar who served in the army of the Ahmadnagar sultanate. He was born in 1552 and was given the jagir(estate) of Pune and Supe by the Sultanate. His son was Shahaji and grandson was Shivaji.
Shahaji inherited the jagirs after Maloji's death. He followed in his father's footsteps and joined the Mughal forces under Badshah Shah Jehan, he later joined the Bijapur Sultanate. From them he received the jagir of Bangalore.
Shahaji was an exponent of guerrilla warfare and it is said that he never lost a battle. He was very well known for his calibre and his services were sought after by the Mughals, Adilshahi as well as the Nizamshahi.
Shivaji the son of Shahaji and Jijabai,was brought up by Jijabai in the town of Pune as Shahaji was always away at war and usually lived in Bangalore with his other sons Sambhaji and Venkoji. Shahaji died in 1665. In the year 1674, Shivaji was crowned the Chhatrapati. Pune has always been a very traditional place where they practice Hinduism strictly. None of the Brahmins of Pune were willing to perform the abhishek of Shivaji as he belonged to the Maratha caste which is not considered Ruling caste or Kshatriya in the hierarchical caste structure. Bali Avji Prabhu who was Shivaji's Secretary got a genealogical table prepared which showed that Shivaji belonged to the Sisodia family of Mewar, who were considered Kshatriyas of the purest Rajput clan. Then a Brahmin was brought in from Varanasi to perform the ceremonies as the very strict Brahmins of Pune still refused to perform the abhishek, in spite of the Genealogical table.
Shivaji created a large force of soldiers and restored strategically located forts inland as well as on the coast to safe guard his territory. He revived ancient Hindu traditions, court conventions and promoted the usage of Marathi and Sanskrit as against the Persian used in courts then.
Shivaji encouraged the development of Pune and a number of Peths, temples and dams were constructed during his reign. In 1670, Shaista Khan captured Pune, but after the battle of Sinhagadh, the Marathas got it back under their control.
Aurangzeb occupied Pune from 1703 to 1705.
In 1720, Bajirao Ballal Bhat of Saswad was appointed Peshwa or Prime Minister of the Maratha Empire by Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaja of Satara, who was the grandson of Shivaji Maharaja. Pune was located centrally and all parts of Maharashtra, Konkan, Khandesh, Marathawada could be reached quickly, therefore Shahu Maharaja stationed his army at Pune under the Peshwa Bajiao I, for fast expeditions as well as quick sanction of finances.
Bajirao I moved his base from Saswad to Pune and started the construction of Shaniwarwada and also many temples and bridges and ushered in the era of the Peshwas. Bajirao also constructed an underground aqueduct to get water from Katraj Lake to Shaniwarwada, this aqueduct is still operational.Bajirao was a noted General.
Later Nanasaheb Peshwa the son of Bajirao Peshwa, also developed the city further. He developed Saras bag, Heera bag, Sadashiv Peth, Narayan peth, Rasta peth and Nana path. After the Battle of Panipat the era of the Peshwa declined but Pune remained their seat of power until they were finally defeated by the British East India Company in 1802. In 1817, the third Anglo Maratha war broke out and the Marathas were defeated at Khadki. The City was placed under Bombay Presidency and a large Cantonment was built here. Navi pet and Ganj Peth were developed during this time.
There is a place called Koregaon Bhima outside of Pune which has become a symbol of pride for the Mahar community. In 1818 there was a battle fought at Koregaon Bhima between the British East India Company and the Maratha Confederacy. There were 25,000 Marathas led by Peshwa Bajirao II who intended to fight the British to regain Pune. The Peshwa sent 10,000 Marathas to fight the 800 strong Company Force, that was on its way to reinforce the British troops at Pune. The Company defended the position for nearly 12 hours and the Marathas finally withdrew. The Company troops had predominantly Mahar soldiers and therefore this battle is regarded as a heroic episode in Dalit History. There is an obelisk to commemorate this battle and contains the names of the 49 company soldiers including 22 Mahars killed in action.Here I must add that due to the prevalent caste system, people other than Kshatriyas did not take up arms with Hindu Kings. There were very rare aberrations in this when the Mughals or other Muslim rulers allowed people other than Kshatriyas to join the Army. After the British came in, they broke the Caste system due to which people who were able bodied but belonged to other castes were also recruited in the East India Company army.
Pune is very well known for its educational Institutes. Fergusson College was founded in 1885 by the British. The Symbiosis Institute, Film and TV Institute, The AFMC and other establishments of the Armed Forces speak a lot for the climate and atmosphere for education in Pune.
The Agha Khan Palace was built in 1892 by Sultan Aga Khan III. This graceful building was used by the British to house Gandhi and other prominent nationalist leaders following Gandhi’s Quit India campaign in 1942. The main palace now houses the Gandhi National Memorial where one can see the room where M.K.Gandhi used to stay. The palace is a very beautiful and luxurious place. Kasturba Gandhi and Mahadev Desai died here and a memorial has been built for them in the garden.
Perhaps because Pune was very strictly traditional it also became an important centre in the social and religious reform movements of the late 19th century. Prominent social reformers and freedom fighters lived here, including Gopal Krishna Gokhale,Bal Gangadhar Tilak, Vitthal Ramji Shinde, Dhondo Keshav Karve, Jyotirao Phule, Dr. Raghunath Karve, Tarabai Shinde and Pandita Ramabai. These reformists demanded the abolition of caste prejudice, equal rights for women, harmony between the Hindu and Muslim communities, and better schools for the poor.
One more person of prominence who lived in Pune is Anandibai Gopal Joshi(1865-1887)who was the first lady physician of India who studied in USA. Society in those days was such that Hindus were not allowed to go across the sea. There were many restrictions and Anandibai faced a lot of hostilities from society at large as they presumed that by going abroad Anandibai would loose her status in society and could also change her Religion. She convinced people that she would not convert and also that she was going only to pursue studies. It is commendable that a fifteen year old girl could take bold decisions and bold steps to educate herself. It is said that her husband Gopal Joshi was instrumental in educating her and also for sending her abroad, although the means that he used were harsh, as it is said that he used to beat Anandibai. She became a Doctor, returned to India but sadly she suffered from TB and stayed in Pune to get treatment but died before she attained the age of 22.
Mahatma Gandhi was imprisoned at Yerwada Central Jail several times.Yerwada Central Jail was built in 1871 by the British and has been a very famous Jail as many freedom fighters were jailed here between 1930 and 1942. These included Gandhi, Nehru, Subhash Chandra Bose, Bal Gangadhar Tilak, and Savarkar. The Poona Pact where Gandhi went on an indefinite fast to protest against the Communal awards was also signed at this Jail on 24th September 1932, between Dr. Ambedkar and Gandhi.
Aurangzeb occupied Pune from 1703 to 1705.
In 1720, Bajirao Ballal Bhat of Saswad was appointed Peshwa or Prime Minister of the Maratha Empire by Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaja of Satara, who was the grandson of Shivaji Maharaja. Pune was located centrally and all parts of Maharashtra, Konkan, Khandesh, Marathawada could be reached quickly, therefore Shahu Maharaja stationed his army at Pune under the Peshwa Bajiao I, for fast expeditions as well as quick sanction of finances.
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| Ruins of Shaniwarwada |
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| Mastani Gate at Shaniwarwada |
Later Nanasaheb Peshwa the son of Bajirao Peshwa, also developed the city further. He developed Saras bag, Heera bag, Sadashiv Peth, Narayan peth, Rasta peth and Nana path. After the Battle of Panipat the era of the Peshwa declined but Pune remained their seat of power until they were finally defeated by the British East India Company in 1802. In 1817, the third Anglo Maratha war broke out and the Marathas were defeated at Khadki. The City was placed under Bombay Presidency and a large Cantonment was built here. Navi pet and Ganj Peth were developed during this time.
There is a place called Koregaon Bhima outside of Pune which has become a symbol of pride for the Mahar community. In 1818 there was a battle fought at Koregaon Bhima between the British East India Company and the Maratha Confederacy. There were 25,000 Marathas led by Peshwa Bajirao II who intended to fight the British to regain Pune. The Peshwa sent 10,000 Marathas to fight the 800 strong Company Force, that was on its way to reinforce the British troops at Pune. The Company defended the position for nearly 12 hours and the Marathas finally withdrew. The Company troops had predominantly Mahar soldiers and therefore this battle is regarded as a heroic episode in Dalit History. There is an obelisk to commemorate this battle and contains the names of the 49 company soldiers including 22 Mahars killed in action.Here I must add that due to the prevalent caste system, people other than Kshatriyas did not take up arms with Hindu Kings. There were very rare aberrations in this when the Mughals or other Muslim rulers allowed people other than Kshatriyas to join the Army. After the British came in, they broke the Caste system due to which people who were able bodied but belonged to other castes were also recruited in the East India Company army.
Pune is very well known for its educational Institutes. Fergusson College was founded in 1885 by the British. The Symbiosis Institute, Film and TV Institute, The AFMC and other establishments of the Armed Forces speak a lot for the climate and atmosphere for education in Pune.
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| Aga Khan Palace |
The Agha Khan Palace was built in 1892 by Sultan Aga Khan III. This graceful building was used by the British to house Gandhi and other prominent nationalist leaders following Gandhi’s Quit India campaign in 1942. The main palace now houses the Gandhi National Memorial where one can see the room where M.K.Gandhi used to stay. The palace is a very beautiful and luxurious place. Kasturba Gandhi and Mahadev Desai died here and a memorial has been built for them in the garden.
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| Kasturba Gandhi and Mahadev Desai's memorial. |
One more person of prominence who lived in Pune is Anandibai Gopal Joshi(1865-1887)who was the first lady physician of India who studied in USA. Society in those days was such that Hindus were not allowed to go across the sea. There were many restrictions and Anandibai faced a lot of hostilities from society at large as they presumed that by going abroad Anandibai would loose her status in society and could also change her Religion. She convinced people that she would not convert and also that she was going only to pursue studies. It is commendable that a fifteen year old girl could take bold decisions and bold steps to educate herself. It is said that her husband Gopal Joshi was instrumental in educating her and also for sending her abroad, although the means that he used were harsh, as it is said that he used to beat Anandibai. She became a Doctor, returned to India but sadly she suffered from TB and stayed in Pune to get treatment but died before she attained the age of 22.
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| Memorial of Mahadji Scindia |
Mahadji Scindia of Gwalior, was the Commander in chief of the Maratha Army under the Peshwas. He died in Pune and there is a beautiful memorial dedicated to him in Pune.
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| Where Mahadji Scindia was cremated |
Mahatma Gandhi was imprisoned at Yerwada Central Jail several times.Yerwada Central Jail was built in 1871 by the British and has been a very famous Jail as many freedom fighters were jailed here between 1930 and 1942. These included Gandhi, Nehru, Subhash Chandra Bose, Bal Gangadhar Tilak, and Savarkar. The Poona Pact where Gandhi went on an indefinite fast to protest against the Communal awards was also signed at this Jail on 24th September 1932, between Dr. Ambedkar and Gandhi.
This jail also remained in the limelight after Independence, as during Emergency in 1975, Balasaheb Deoras, Atal Behari Vajpayee, Pramila Dandavate were imprisoned here. Anna Hazare, Telgi, Arun Gawli, Sanjay Dutt have also been inmates here. The last notorious criminal of this jail was Ajmal Kasab who was hanged and buried here in 2012.
Pune has been a hub for reform, freedom movement, tradition, strict conservatism and a salubrious climate for education. The Osho ashram with its very free thought was also established at Pune.
Inspite of being so close to Mumbai, it has maintained its distinctness. The Marathi language spoken at Pune is considered very pure, the conservatism and practice of Hindu Religion is very strict.
It is a large City in size but maintains its identity as a small town.
The Shaniwarwada built very lovingly by Bajirao I is now in ruins. One can only see the walls of the Fort as well as a gate from where Mastani his second wife who was a Muslim could enter the Wada. There is Kelkar Museum here which is one man's collection of artefacts. A portion of the Mastani Mahal has also been kept at the Kelkar Museum.
The Lal Mahal, Dagdu Sheth Ganpati are some more places to see at Pune.Lal Mahal was the palace where Shivaji spent his childhood. The original building was destroyed and what stands in its place is a recent building.
Yes indeed, Pune retains its slow pace, looks pretty and neat and does not appear to want to grow up to be like its neighbour Mumbai. It is a beautiful place with a lot of greenery, lots of Universities and educational Institutions.
The new developments in the periphery of the town are distinct from the Old town of Pune, it is growing, glowing and young. Yet the simplicity of the old town, its people, its undercurrent of the pride in their Puneri language, culture, and cuisine stand out.
Inspite of being so close to Mumbai, it has maintained its distinctness. The Marathi language spoken at Pune is considered very pure, the conservatism and practice of Hindu Religion is very strict.
It is a large City in size but maintains its identity as a small town.
The Shaniwarwada built very lovingly by Bajirao I is now in ruins. One can only see the walls of the Fort as well as a gate from where Mastani his second wife who was a Muslim could enter the Wada. There is Kelkar Museum here which is one man's collection of artefacts. A portion of the Mastani Mahal has also been kept at the Kelkar Museum.
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| DAGDU SHETH GANPATI |
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| LAL MAHAL FACADE |
Yes indeed, Pune retains its slow pace, looks pretty and neat and does not appear to want to grow up to be like its neighbour Mumbai. It is a beautiful place with a lot of greenery, lots of Universities and educational Institutions.
The new developments in the periphery of the town are distinct from the Old town of Pune, it is growing, glowing and young. Yet the simplicity of the old town, its people, its undercurrent of the pride in their Puneri language, culture, and cuisine stand out.
3 comments:
Man Singh Said,"Thanks for the rich write up and photographs.This write up to guide me when I go to visit Pune and Koregaon Bhima memorial."
Rakesh Mohan Saxena said,"Pune is wonderful and Good City. That's why I decided to settle here."
Sk Kapoor said,"Yes it is one of the most loved city by me where I was for more then 4 years from 1958 to 62, while my father was posted in CME(College of Military Engineering),which had its own Railway to run by coal around CME, officers are given training to run the train,I remember one of the largest screen of open Air theatre where we used to watch one hindi and one english film in a week. while watching english film I still remember when an officer used to laugh loudly others like me used to follow him.Yes here is most prestigious NDA military academy.Laxmi road which you mentioned was also important for hous hold utensils.One way traffic was strictly followed at that and at present also.One Budhwar Peth which people used to avoid in their normal talking was famous for prositutes. At one time 7 governors of India were pass out from ferguson college.The traditions old and modern are equally followed by people.To mention the last I attended a ball dance organised by my CR in aid of National defence fund after china war inaugurated by our principal which was rare in North India, we had co education at Wadia college and girls also participated at night in a hall at Main Street . In all it is one of the great cities,which I never forget to revisit when I get a chance."
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