LUMBINI GAVE US THE LIGHT OF ASIA

THE PUSHKARNI TANK AT LUMBINI

After seeing the place where Buddha died, my next destination was the place where he was born. We had to cross into Nepal. One does not need a Visa, but have to cross the border where a few formalities are completed. We crossed from Sunauli. People on foot or cycle can go across without any restriction. In fact it was as if they were going across an old time Railway Crossing with the barrier down. People were walking and shopping for daily needs from the Indian side. One more interesting information is that Indian notes of Rs. 500 and Rs. 1000 cannot be used in Nepal, they accept Rs. 100 notes.

FLOWERS

Once inside Nepal driving towards Lumbini we saw ponds all along the roadside. The ponds were full of lilies and lotus flowers. It was a lovely sight.

We reached Lumbini where there is a huge park. Sign boards were quite inadequate and not clear. One had to ask for the gate from where one could enter the spot where Siddharth Gautam was actually born.

GATE AT LUMBINI

 We were directed to enter from Gate number 4 and walk as cars were not allowed inside. The garden is nice and well maintained. To maintain the sanctity of this place only monasteries can be built in the enclosure .   Shops, hotels or restaurants are not allowed here. 

MAHAMAYA TEMPLE

There is a temple built over the exact spot where Gautama was born. There was a long but orderly queue which went up to the exact spot. One could stand peacefully  as long as one wished to. There was no jostling, no pushing or remarks passed. Every one waited for their turn patiently. After all, everyone had come from far away to see the place, so everyone was allowed freedom to stand as long as one wished to.

The exact spot is covered with glass and one could see the stump of a tree which may have stood there 2500 years ago. It is said that Mahamaya the queen of King Shuddhodhan, left Tilaurakot, the capital of Kapilvastu and was on her way to her mothers place in Devdaha, when she stopped at Lumbini Garden and her child was born under a tree. There is a pond nearby called Pushkarni where Mahamaya is said to have taken her bath.There are a lot of ruins of ancient monasteries, stupas and layers of brick structures in the area from the 3rd century BC. which shows that the place around the Maya Devi temple had been venerated from early times.

I remained in the complex for a long time and actually went upto the exact spot three times as I wanted to have my fill of the place.

ASOKA'S PILLAR

There is an Asoka Pillar also just outside the temple premises where a lot of people were sitting and meditating.

PATHS

When we started on our way back it was dark. Street lights were lit, but in the absence of any sign board we kept turning into wrong lanes. There were not many people on the path chosen by us, so reaching back was more of an adventure trip. The hotel where we stayed at Lumbini was quite nice. Food too was good.

SHUDHODHAN'S CREMATION PLACE STUPA

Having had my fill of Lumbini we proceeded to Tilaurakot, where there are ruins of the palace said to have been the place where Siddhartha spent 29  years of his life. The ruins are of two gates, and palaces. The place is not maintained very well. We went to the East gate from where Siddhartha is supposed to have left the palace. He went up to the River Rohini from where he sent his chariot back. His horse it is said returned but did not enter the palace gates. He died just near the gate.

PIPRAHWA -KAPILVASTU

In India in UP at a place called Piprahwa, ruins of palaces have also been found. Claims are being made that this is the real  Kapilvastu. We visited Piprahwa too. The Indian side of Kapilvastu is maintained very nicely. The gardens around the ruins are beautiful. 

We  had an adventure trip while leaving Kapilvastu and trying to reach Piprahwa. There is a border post just South of Kapilvastu  near Aligarwah,from where one could enter Piprahwa, but from this border only two wheelers could go across. We therefore had to go about ten kms. away and then leave Nepal from Khunwah border. Reaching Piprahwa was quite tough, as we had to travel another 30 kms. to reach Piprahwa which was in fact just across Aligarwah border. 

 

TILAURAKOT NEPAL'S KAPILVASTU

Tilaurakot and Piprahwa are quite close to each other and there is only the border dividing them both. It is therefore quite possible that the claims of both the places are correct. Both have ruins of palaces and both could have been one big City.

In those days marriage between close kin was permitted, as it is interesting to note that Shudhodhan was married to his paternal aunt's(bua's) daughters Mahamaya and Prajapati Gautami. Yashodhara the wife of Siddhartha who was also called Bhaddakaccana was also his maternal uncle's(mama's) daughter.The women were from the Koliya clan and men were from the Shakya clan. Devdaha was the capital of the Koliyas and Tilaurakot was the capital of Kapilvastu. They were both vassal states of Kingdom of Kosala. Tilaurakot is 27 KM west of Lumbini and Devdaha is 35 Km North East of Lumbini. 
Both these places were Gana Rajyas.  Shudhodhan was an elected Raja. There used to be a Santhagara where general assembly of old and young men of a  clan met and decided matters of general and state affairs. These Santhagaras ( santha means group and agar means house or assembly place) of Republic states would control relations with other states,and matters of war and peace. Amazing, isn't it that we have retained a few words from the 6th Century BC, like "Bharat Ganarajya!"