THE MOST BESOTTED VAISHALI.

COMPLETE LION PILLAR AT VAISHALI

 In those days, around 2500 years ago, in the fertile land of the terai(wet land), where huge rivers like the Ganga, Gandak, Sone, Pun pun, Ghaghra, Kosi flowed, there was a sort of Democracy practiced, which was called Ganarajya. Gana means clan and rajya here means rule.The ruler was elected for a year. He was elected by 7707 Rajas and had a Council of nine people to assist him in administration. These rajas were male heads  of families belonging to the Kshatriya clan. Interestingly around the same time in 507 BC, an Athenian leader Cleisthenes introduced a system of political reforms that was called demokratia or Rule by the people. Here too the ruler was elected by male citizens of Athens who were over the age of 18.

There were 16 confederacies in North India then and the Vajji Mahajanapada had its capital at Vaishali  which was the seat of the Lichchavi Ganarajya. Being in the terai region with plenty of river water which brought a lot of silt with it, this fertile land was very prosperous. When food is a plenty and all needs are met, then human race progresses and flourishes and development takes place in other aspects of life. Perhaps that is the reason why this area gave us our Historical glory, great culture and intellectual and reformative Religions. The great Buddha and Mahavira were born in this era and area.

Continuing on my journey from Patna on the path that Gautama the Buddha traversed 2500 years ago, while crossing the mighty Ganga, I  looked at  the vast expanse of water with reverence as it had allowed such a great civilization to flourish here. Perhaps that is the reason why this humongous Ganga is considered sacred! So many rivers have already flown into the Ganga by this time that all the soil, and culture seems to have converged together.

KING VISHAL'S PALACE- RUINS

After crossing the Ganga, I reached one of the most important cities of ancient India "Vaishali". Today Vaishali is just a bit bigger than a small town of rural India. All that might, beauty and  glory that it once possessed has vanished. Time has taken its toll and what once was a much coveted City and where Buddha stayed and preached for many years, no longer wields the power it did once upon a time!

This was the place where King Vishal ruled. There are some ruins where one can see what once must have been very glorious. If Bimbisar and his son Ajatshatru of Rajgrih wanted to conquer Vaishali there must have been something worth conquering here!

This was the place where the most beautiful girl of the Region was made the Nagar-vadhu or Bride of the City! What a sad state of affairs! The most beautiful girl would be chosen, would be trained in the arts of music and dance, but she would also have to be the courtesan who would have to be the bride of  anyone who could pay her price. Amrapali was one such City bride. It is said that this tradition was started by King Manudev of the Lichchavi clan who wished to possess Amrapali and therefore set up this practice as Amrapali wanted to marry someone else.The village of Ambada Chowk is  the place where Amrapali lived. A Girls School is built upon the place where it is said once lived Amrapali.  Amrapali had become a disciple of the Buddha and had renounced the World and joined the Bhikhshu  Sangha.

THIS CONTAINED RELICS OF BUDDHA NOW OPEN

As we moved away from the ruins of the palace of King Vishal, we reached the pond where the Abhishek or anointment of the King was done every year. Near by is the Stupa where the relics of the Buddha were preserved. This Stupa was opened by Asoka in the 3rd Century BC. The Relics were removed and smaller portions were distributed all over India where it is believed that 84,000 Stupas were built over the distributed relics.

 Vaishali was the place where at the age of 80, Buddha gave his last discourse and declared to the people that he was departing from Vaishali and would soon be leaving the world forever. The people of Vaishali were very upset at this disclosure and kept following him on his journey away from Vaishali. The Buddha then gave them his Bhiksha patra as a token and told them to return back to their homes.

STUPA OF ANANDA

As one leaves Vaishali one reaches the Stupa where the relics of Buddha's most favorite shishya (disciple) Anand are preserved. There is a beautiful Asoka Pillar here with a sitting Lion on the top. Thankfully this is a complete Pillar and not broken or damaged.

SWASTIKA SHAPED MONASTERY FOR WOMEN

There are also the ruins of a monastery in the shape of  a Swastika. Vaishali was the place where Maha Prajapati Gautami, the step mother of Siddhartha who had brought him up, asked Buddha to allow women to join the Sangha. After Ananda's persuasion Buddha allowed women to join the Sangha. That was quite a revolutionary step granting equality to women!

MAHAVIRA'S TEMPLE BEING BUILT AT KUNDAGRAM

 

FIVE LEVELS OF KESARIYA STUPA

Leaving Vaishali we went onwards towards Kesariya. Kesariya which was called Kessa-putta in the days of the Buddha is about 55 kms away from Vaishali. The people of Vaishali had followed Buddha upto Kesariya after his last discourse. This is the place where Buddha gave them his Bhiksha patra.

This is also the place where Buddha is supposed to have given his discourse where he had said that his followers must analyze his teachings thoroughly before accepting them, "Atta Deep Bhava". This was granting the people Freedom of thought.

DIFFERENT SHAPES

The Stupa  here is supposed to be the largest Stupa in the world. It has five levels and each level differs in shape.  We went around half the Stupa as the other half is still under a mound. While leaving the place, as we sat near the gate, the guard asked us if we had seen the statues of Buddha. He told us they were visible from a distance and were on the north side of the stupa. We quickly went back and then could see the various niches where there were about nine statues of the Buddha. Sadly, the Khaljis in the 13th century AD, had partly destroyed these statues.

 MANY STATUES

Many people do not visit Vaishali and even fewer visit Kesariya. Both these places were important places during the life of the Buddha. They both are also important as two very important discourses of the Buddha were held here. Vaishali is also the place where the Second Buddhist Council was held 100 years after the death of Buddha, where certain rules to be followed by the Bhikhus were discussed.

THE SETTING SUN

Breathing in the air of Vaishali, walking on the road taken by the Great Teacher,I could visualize  the surge of humanity grieving at the imminent death of their beloved Teacher. The thought that they would never see him, hear him again was surely the ultimate grief. 

The Buddha had said," The whole secret of existence is to have no fear. Never fear what will become of you, depend on no one. Only the moment you reject all help, are you freed."

STEPPING STONES?