Saturday, December 7, 2013

QUEST FOR KNOWLEDGE.

THE PATH LEADING TO KNOWLEDGE
 If I  had to describe a University, I would  draw my answer from its ancient designation of a "Studium Generale", or “School of Universal Learning.” This description implies the assemblage of strangers from all parts of the world in one spot  with teachers and students for every department of knowledge.  
We Indians have always been very proud and vocal about our heritage, our parampara, our knowledge, our ancient glory, wisdom, development of art, science, niti and advancement in astronomy, maths, dance and music. Where did we learn it and where did we teach it? 
This question took me to our great centers of learning of which the most well  known  are Takshashila, Nalanda and Vikramshila. Takshashila, now in Pakistan was the oldest. A few  famous teachers of Takshashila were Chanakya, Vishnu Sharma who wrote the Pancha Tantra, Charaka the Physician, Panini the Grammar Exponent and Jeevaka, the Physician of the Buddha. A famous alumni was Chandragupta Maurya, grand father of Asoka the Great. Takshashila was in existence since eighth century BCE, and continued to attract students from around the old world until the destruction of the University in the 5th century by the Huns.Students came here from Babylon, Greece, Syria, Arabia, Phoenicia, China, Magadha, Kashi and Koshala. In spite of the long and arduous journey they had to undergo,  the excellence of the learned teachers  brought students from all over. The teachers were recognized as authorities in their respective subjects.There were about 68 different streams of discipline here. There were about 10500 students studying here.This University's primary concern was not with elementary, but higher education. Generally, a student entered Takshashila at the age of sixteen. 
When Alexander attacked India in the 4th Century BC, he took back with him a number of scholars from here. Is it therefore surprising that a lot of myths, and stories are quite similar in Greece, Syria and India?

Vikramshila is the lesser known University, which is located in Bihar near Bhagalpur. It came into existence after the Nalanda University was at its decline.

SARIPUTTA'S STUPA AT NALANDA
Nalanda is known to almost all of us. It is in Bihar, close to Rajgrih and Patna. This University existed from 5th Century AD to 1197 AD. In the first 300 years it flourished with liberal cultural traditions but from 9th century onwards the decline set in as Tantricism became more pronounced.  Yijing( 673- 695AD) a Chinese Buddhist scholar says that when he was at Nalanda there were 300 rooms and 8 colleges, and matters of discussion and administration required an assembly and consensus by all at the assembly as also of the resident monks, who were not at the Assembly. 
THE ENTRANCE IS BEHIND ME
My journey on the path traversed by The Great Buddha took me from  Rajgrih to Nalanda. The gate to this center of learning, education and   wisdom was quite small. But as soon as I went inside, it was like entering a different world, where there was no noise, no sound, nothing but bricks, and ruins which spoke of the amazing brilliance of this place. It was as if I had entered from a tunnel into an amazing space filled with light . 


ROOMS


There were ruins of monasteries after monasteries on one side, and then there were temples and then there were stupas.
Admissions to institutes of learning has always been tough. Ask the parents of a toddler today, and they will tell you that the toddler goes to a prep school so that subsequently the child gets admitted to a good school. So from time immemorial admissions to institutes of learning has been tough. Is it any wonder then that getting admission to the Nalanda University was really tough? Do you know, according to folklore  who asked the first questions for the admission interview? It was the dwarpal or the Doorman. So much wisdom oozed out from the place that even the gatekeeper could interview a new student to judge if the student was capable of studying at Nalanda. Religion, logic, metaphysics and a lot more disciplines were taught here. Students came from Korea, Japan,Iran, Indonesia and China, besides of course Magadh, Kosala and Kashi.
TWO BEDS & A BOOK SHELF
I allowed my imagination to fly as I entered the Monastery.Each Monastery is a complete unit by itself. There are rooms with a built in bed and a shelf for keeping books. Two students would share a room. There is a kitchen, a well, and a place for the teacher to sit and give his discourse. There is a drainage system, where the drain becomes deeper as it goes towards the pit.
TEACHING SPACE
I imagined a class going on where the students were eager to learn. There would be no forced learning, it was your own desire to learn. Fees were not charged. The rulers of the area made it mandatory for some villages to provide the University with funds to carry on with the teaching unhindered, so education was state sponsored.
Our famous tourists and scholars from China, the great Hieun Tsang and Fa Hein have written great accounts of the University.
THE GIANT WILD GOOSE PAGODA AT XIAN, CHINA
Hieun Tsang travelled to India in the seventh century AD to study at Nalanda. He took back a lot of books with him and in Xian in China, the Tang dynasty King gave him land to build a Library in 652 AD, which for some strange reason is called "The Giant Wild Goose Pagoda". I saw this pagoda which one cannot enter now, but the surroundings are maintained very beautifully.
THE MOUNDS & THE RUINS
Nalanda had a very huge campus. Even today the surrounding villages are  built over  mounds, which if  dug will reveal more monasteries and Temples.
The Library at Nalanda University was very famous and had a huge collection of books.
BURNT BRICKS
In the 13th century when the Khaljis set out to destroy everything which was not about their religion, they burnt this whole university down. It is said that the Library burnt for three whole months. Even today after almost  900 years, one can see some burnt brick walls, and feel sad about this misjudged act of arson.
A BENCH & SERENITY
The gardens and lawns around the ruins are maintained immaculately. One can sit under a tree and feel the monks moving about, and  hear the discussions, the theories and the debates going on. The air over here must be wise, the trees must be swishing thoughts when the wind blows, the walls if only they could communicate would tell us more tales than one.
Nalanda is where the stupa of Buddha's Shishya Sariputta exists.
SEEK & YOU WILL RECEIVE


Nalanda is where perhaps knowledge  spread, got wings and then got burnt down, ending our quest for learning, free thinking, radicle thoughts, where it was all about learning for betterment and improvement of the self. There were no certificates awarded, there were no jobs guaranteed, there was no money at the end of the knowledge gates.  It was emancipation, enlightenment, and development of the self.
 Learning was at its best, the thirst and quest for knowledge was the essence of existence. 
Could there be anything better than this insatiable hunger for knowledge?
ROOMS WITH PLACE FOR LAMP
As the Wise Buddha said, "Atta deep bhava", or in wisdom be a lamp unto yourself. He also said, "Do not blindly believe what others say, even if it is said by the Buddha. See for yourself what brings contentment, clarity and peace, that is the path for you to follow".
Knowledge, freedom from blind faith and eventual enlightenment can only be achieved when we open our minds, question, discuss and then get convinced.  Quest for knowledge can only be quenched by questioning. 

8 comments:

triloki nagpal said...

A very beautiful as well a descriptive write up that not only has the power to mesmerize you and take you back thousands of years into history but also has a lot of knowledge for one to imbibe and learn.

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Sunalini Ram The combination of knowledge and wisdom is becoming a rarity these days !

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Kohli Amarjit Highly informative & captivating recount of our GREAT HERITAGE destroyed by the BARBARIC invadors ......!
Thanks Varsha Uke Nagpalji ...... for updating us ....!!!

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Abhijit Das Thanks Madam for highly informative & captivating recount of our great heritage sight. Photography was excellent. I like the blog very much.

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Gulshan Dhingra excellent narration and mar

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Man Singh scattered historical facts consolidated and nice photos make the write up interesting.

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Lindsay Kere Nalanda is an amazing place. And half of it is still underground

Indian art lover said...

Enjoyed the blog and love the photographs but one small point about the Didarganj Yakshi. Her nose was broken when she was discovered--look at old photographs. There is a small scratch on her face she received when a chain holding her slipped when she was in an exhibition in Japan in the 1980s.