A COOL PLACE IN DELHI - THE LODI GARDENS

MOHD SHAH'S TOMB WITH GULDASTA

Summer in Delhi is hot, and nothing but hot. The evenings also are unpleasant, as even after sundown the heat wave seems to continue undisturbed.

To get some respite from the desert like dusty Delhi, I ventured into the Lodi Gardens with the Delhi Heritage Walk, one fine evening! The walk was lovely, cool and green.

The gardens are spread in 90 acres, with lovely paths, huge shady trees, a whole lot of birds inhabiting the place, and the tombs of the Sayyed and Lodi dynasty spread around. I felt as if I had arrived in paradise! These gardens were restored by the British, therefore the pattern is not like what it would have been originally during the Sultanate times, when gardens were laid out as Char baghs(four squares) with water flowing through.

I had been to these gardens on many occasions for picnics. In those days the ruins never attracted me. Those were just spots which were usually fixed as a meeting point.

As I walked this evening, I found that I could not name a single Ruler from the Sayyed dynasty!  In fact Delhi-ites learn a lot of History from the names of the Roads in the city. I could not remember any road with the name of the Sayyeds!

THE MASJID & A SUNSET

Delhi, the city which never ceased to be the Capital, except for short intervals, was established eight times they say. The Sayyed Dynasty was the fourth in the series of rulers of the Delhi Sultanate. The first was the Slave Dynasty( 1206 - 1290), then Khiljis (1290 -1320), the Tughlaks( 1320 - 1414), and then the Sayyeds( 1414 -1451). Sayyeds ruled only for 37 years. They claimed to be descendants of Prophet Mohammed.

Timur of Uzbekistan had invaded Delhi a number of times during the reign of the Tughlaks. He finally succeeded in 1398, and deputed Khizr Khan  to be Governor of Multan, but the attraction of Delhi made Khizr Khan move to Delhi. After him his son Mubarak Khan ruled. Kotla Mubarakpur near South Extension is named after this Sultan, as his tomb is located at Kotla Mubarakpur.

After the short rule of the Sayyeds, Bahlul Khan Lodi became the Sultan in 1451, and the Lodi Dynasty started. The next in line were the Mughals, followed by the British.

THE MASJID

There are three main tombs in the Gardens. The first as one enters from the gate opposite the Meteorological Office is the Tomb of Mohammad Shah, not to be mistaken with Mohd. Shah "Rangeele" of the Mughal dynasty. The Mughal Badshah lies buried in the Nizamuddin dargah premises.

This tomb is very elaborate and was built in 1444.  It has a big dome in the middle which is surrounded by eight chatris which reminds one of Rajasthani Chatris. These look like  a flower arrangement or bouquet- and are called a “guldasta”! The beauty of this tomb lies in its symmetry, the crowning lotus and decoration on the domes. It is a distinctive octagonal tomb with the central chamber encircled by a verandah which has three arched openings on each side. There are stone lintels along the arches of the verandah with the sloping buttresses at the corner. The pattern of the lotus flower is used extensively. There are eight graves inside the tomb, of which the central one is said to be the grave of Muhammad Shah, the third ruler of the Sayyed dynasty.

BADA GUMBAD...NO TOMB INSIDE

As we move further North one sees a huge structure like a tomb, but inside one finds no grave! On both sides of this Bada Gumbad are two structures. One is a mosque which is very beautiful with carvings, Persian inscription and tiles. This faces the West towards Mecca. The other side has a plain structure which was most probably used as a madrasa or perhaps a resting place for visitors. We went up this structure and were witness to a beautiful sunset! Yes indeed, in this busy City with tall buildings around there are still such sanctuaries where one can enjoy the sunset.

SHEESH GUMBAD SEEN FROM BADA GUMBAD

Nearby is the Sheesh Gumbad. This Gumbad had glazed tiles on its Gumbad and was built during the reign of Sikandar Lodi. The glazed tiles shone and therefore the name “Sheesh Gumbad”. It is not known who are buried in this tomb. The Bada Gumbad and the Sheesh Gumbad are square structures.

SIKANDAR LODI'S TOMB

As we walk further up we reach a fort like wall. Inside this is the tomb of Sikandar Lodi. This too has a big dome but the chatris are missing, therefore there is no guldasta! This tomb too is octagonal like the tomb of Mohd. Shah, and every side has three arches and a verandah around the tomb.

Although both the tombs of Sikandar Lodi and Mohd. Shah are octagonal and have covered verandas all around, I liked the tomb of Mohd. Shah more, perhaps because it is at a height and the guldasta makes the dome look very pretty. There is a certain majesty about this tomb of Mohd. Shah as it stands alone on top of a little hillock. There is a lot of work on the doorways which seem to have been borrowed from the style of structures in Rajasthan.

HINDU ART ON MOHD. SHAH'S TOMB

During the days of the Delhi Sultanate there was a cultural renaissance of sorts as there was fusion of culture of Muslim and Hindu styles in art, architecture, language and dress. In fact Hindi and Urdu too were introduced as common languages during these times.

ATHPULA

Near this tomb is a lake which was connected to the  Yamuna river. This water body led us to the “athpula bridge” (Eight pier  bridge) This was built during Akbar's time. There were beautiful water birds like ducks in the pond. We walked across the bridge and arrived at a watch tower.

Our round had been completed. The birds were chirping away noisily. It seemed as if every bird was trying to tell its own story of the day to their fellow bird members. In this cacophony of sounds I wonder who could listen to anything!

SUNSET & CACOPHONY OF BIRDS

 The majestic trees filled with chirping birds, a long line of evening walkers, a lot of children playing in the park, senior citizens sitting on benches after their walk, was a nice peaceful sight.

 Cool, Lodi Gardens, taught me a few lessons of History. Forgotten dynasties, unknown tombs, and majestic places for respite from the hot summer days of my lovely Delhi! I felt there is peace all around and all is well with the world!