HAZRAT, AULIYA, KHWAJA!

KHWAJA NIZAMUDDIN CHISHTI'S DARGAH.

Hazrat Nizammuddin was associated in my mind as only a railway station in Delhi. It was the one from where trains bound for South India departed.

Yesterday  I took a walk  with Asif Khan and discovered the different facets of this unknown area. From the moment I parked my car infront of the Police Station at Nizammuddin, I slowly started getting transported in time. I travelled to the 19th century and heard in my mind's ears,

“Ye na thi hamaari kismat ki visaale yaar hota,

agar aur jeete rahte yehi intezaar hota!”

GHALIB'S TOMB

The tomb of one of the greatest Shayar of India seems quite small as compared to his stature. It is in a large enclosure, it's in marble, there is nice lattice work, yet somehow it left me feeling that something was missing. I couldn’t identify what was missing, but the feeling that one should have got after visiting the tomb of such a great poet was not there. Asadullah Khan Ghalib was a member of the aristocracy. His grandfather had come from Uzbekistan and settled down in India.

Ghalib(1797-1869) lost his father, then his uncle and therefore at the age of thirteen he got married to Umrao Begum and became a ghar jamai. He was colloquially called Mirza Nausha. He wrote in Pharsi (Persian) which few people understood. After a long time he started writing in Urdu, a language which people could understand easily. He was quite a liberated person, who loved his wine and  lived a life without inhibitions.

"Zahid sharab peene de masjid mein beth kar,

Yaa woh jagha bata jahan Khuda nahin.."

He said let me sit and drink in the Masjid, or else let me know of the place where God is not present.

While he lived, he lived in poverty, was not as famous as he now is. He received a pension and had a tough time trying to make both ends meet.

Now, he is known all over and his couplets are quoted very freely.

Posterity will know him and recognise him. Alas! While living he didn't get his due.

STORY TELLING ON THE GATE OF A SARAI.

 As we moved on there was a hujoom(crowd) of people in front of the local Mosque. This part of Delhi remains as it must have been in the 18^th century. All the men were in kurta pajama and  white caps and were busily walking down the road, with not an inch of space for fresh air. We went up an old gate of a fort like structure. This gate was built during the Lodi Empire. It was the gate of a sarai(inn) for people who came to visit the Dargah of Nizamuddin. It was a cool, wide and interesting place. We sat like little children listening to Asif Khan narrating the story of Ghalib, like an old time daastangoii( story narrator)

A HUJOOM OF PEOPLE

We then went down a few more centuries as we went into labyrinthine gullies. There were rose petal sellers, chadar(sheet) sellers, people selling caps and everyone inviting us to leave our shoes with them. Little children were manning a number of shops. The 20th Century thought of BAN child labour came to my mind, but I quickly banished the thought, and returned to the 19th century or was it the 16^th century?

TOMB OF AMIR KHUSRO

As soon as one enters the Nizamuddin dargah, one sees the tomb of Amir Khusro. Amir Khusro(1253-1325) was a poet who wrote in Persian and also introduced the khadi boli or Hindvi. He was of Turk origin. He composed a number of riddles, which are still popular. It is also said that he introduced the tabla and the sitar. He is also credited with enriching Hindustani Classical music by introducing Persian and Arabic elements in it.  He also introduced Qawwali style of singing. He was also the originator of the Khayal and Tarana style of music. Khusro was a great disciple of Nizamuddin and died within 6 months of the Auliya’s death. 

After visiting Amir Khusro’s  tomb we moved towards the main dargah of Nizamuddin Aulia(1238-1325). He was also of Turk origin and his grand father too had come from Uzbekistan and settled in Badayun in present day UP.

PRAYERS & RED THREAD

 At that time Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq was the Emperor of Delhi. He had banned all construction work as he was getting his fort built at present day Tughlakabad.  At that time Nizamuddin was getting a hauz (water tank) made for use by his many followers and visitors. As there was a ban on construction,the workers would work for the Auliya in the night. Tughlaq was annoyed at this and banned the sale of oil, so that work would not be possible at night. But to the astonishment of everyone the workers discovered that water turned into oil and they could light lamps to continue the construction of the Baoli. Delhi has a lot of legends and stories which keep our interest alive, and make us feel great to belong to this city which was full of intrigue as well as mysticism.

It is quite amazing to see the number of people who came to India from the Middle East, Turkey, Uzbekistan, and made it their own land. We also made them our own people. What do borders actually mean? I wonder! Who belongs, who have come to settle lately, who made my city rich with their culture, poetry, and style? Who are we?

TOMB OF JAHAN ARA

The tomb of the designer of Delhi's Chandni Chowk is also located in this complex. This designer was Jahan Ara the daughter of Shah Jehan. Her tomb is not covered by stone on the top, and there is no roof too. There is only a marble screen enclosing the tomb. It is said that Jahan Ara wanted the natural elements to visit her grave, and had asked that her tomb remain without a cover on top.

BADSHAH MOHD. SHAH RANGEELE!

A later day Mughal Badshah, who gave away the Takhte Taos or the Peacock throne as well as the Kohinoor to Nadir Shah of Iran in 1793 is also buried here. This Badshah was Mohd Shah also called “Rangeele(colourful)”.

People throng the dargah of Nizammuddin, and there was a constant stream of men going in to offer flowers, chadar and their prayers. Women of course are not allowed inside the main chamber, they can look in through the lattice work. Almost all the beautiful lattice work in marble is filled with red thread. These are all applications of the people with their wishes spoken directly to the Auliya. It is said that all wishes made at this Dargah are fulfilled. Faith they say moveth mountains!

PRAYERS, ARZIAYAAN!

We then visited the famous hauz. The water was absolutely green. There were small children willing to dive in for a few rupees. Child labour again raised its head. I banished the thought again. This my dear is India where little children have to bear the burden and bring home some money to add to the meager money that their father must be earning.

After this interesting and intriguing walk down centuries, I walked out as if in a trance. It took me a while to realize that this is the 21^st century as I had travelled pretty fast from the 13^th century to 15^th, 19^th and finally 21^st Century.

I AM CAPTIVATED

It is amazing to see these pockets of places where time and style is very different. Where the dead are revered and prayers are answered. Where Ghalib the great Nausha Miyan who looked for more money and thought of his marriage as a cage where one is entrapped, is buried. Ghalib’s couplets, ghazals and writings are known to almost everyone. He was a man who lived with his head held high, but lived a life of want. Do we only recognize a person’s worth after his death?

QAWALLI SESSION

Now after going to the 14^th century and seeing all the sights, sounds and smells as they must have been then, I know and believe that Sufism, music, qawallis and ghazals will remain forever. They talk of love, peace, happiness and sukoon! These are the things that remain in the hearts of people through generations!

The Qawwals at the Dargah sang what Amir Khusro said, 

“छाप तिलक सब छीनी रे मोसे नैना मिलाइके

बात अगम कह दीनी रे मोसे नैना मिलाइके
प्रेम भटी का मदवा पिलाइके
मतवारी कर लीन्ही रे मोसे नैना मिलाइके  

“You've taken away my looks, my identity, by just a glance.

By making me drink the wine from the distillery of love,

You have intoxicated me by just a glance."

THE MAZAAR

Yes indeed Hazrat Nizamuddin is not just a train station. It is a station which takes you to your destination with peace and love, and beautiful, soulful, entrancing music!