Friday, April 20, 2012

MY OWN QUTAB MINAR!


Qutab Minar has always been sort of just a landmark down the lane for me. It's just my friendly next door neighborhood monument! It has always been a beautiful historical structure, which I saw everyday on my way out of Sainik Farms. Just as one takes everyday things for granted, it never struck me that I should one day actually visit this place like a tourist. It was always there, so I knew that I could see it anytime. In fact my parents had brought us to Delhi, long long ago from a back of the beyond Colliery of Bhurkunda in Bihar. We had then seen the Qutab Minar. We had actually run up the stairs and climbed up to the 1st level and seen Delhi from there, which was spread out and was beautiful.
Calligraphy, beautiful perfection!


Now, it just so happened that my daughter and her phirang children came visiting us last December. My daughter an out and out Dilliwali, wanted her children to imbibe the spirit of this lovely city and learn all about its history. Which better place could there be than our next door friendly monument to take a walk down History lane? We therefore set out without much ado. The trip turned out to be quite interesting and educative, and  from then on I could see my giant of a neighbor in it's true magnitude.
This magnificent tall dark and beautiful piece of architecture, a World Heritage site was built in 1193 by Qutab ud din Aibak the first ruler of the Slave dynasty. It was completed in 1230 AD.Qutab is situated in the first City of Delhi. This is where stood Lal Kot and Qila Rai Pithora. Lal Kot was founded by the Tomars and Qila Rai Pithora belonged to Prithviraj Chauhan of Sanyogita fame.
The masjid with temple pillars.

Well, so after Mohd Ghori won over Delhi, from Prithviraj Chauhan, he left his slave Qutab Ud din Aibak of Turk origin to rule the place. This slave to commemorate the Victory of his Master, quickly plundered a number of Jain and Hindu temples and started the construction of a huge Minar. He died around the time the first storey was completed and the next 2 storey’s were made by his son in law Iltutmish or Altamush.
The Slave Dynasty ruled from 1206 to 1290. Some well known rulers of this dynasty were Altamush, Razia Sultan, and Balban. After the Slave dynasty came the Khiljis.
The majestic minar!


I now wonder how advanced were the people of those times who could construct such magnificent structures, which were beautiful, majestic and withstood the test of time. Today we have a plethora of colleges which churn out Architects and Engineers, but is there a building which stands out for its beauty and majesty today, which will still stand 1000 years from now?
The Minar is really very beautiful. It is made in red and buff sandstone. It has a diameter of 14.32 metres at the base and 2.75 metres on the top. Its height is 72.5 metres. It has 5 storeys and the two top floors were repaired by Feroze Shah Tughlaq after the Minar was hit by lightening in 1368. The symmetry of the building, the calligraphy, and the beautiful craftsmanship needs to be seen and appreciated. The Minar is gigantic and yet it is beautifully carved with inscriptions, geometrical and arabesque patterns which look very balanced and proportionate. The curves and the angles of the Minar are a visual delight. This huge structure is very precise, and looks simply perfect. One can simply continuously gaze at it with amazement.
A tomb.

Besides the Qutab Minar this complex also has the tomb of Iltutmish and Allaudin Khilji. It also has the Alai Darwaza.which was a massive doorway to the Quwwat ul Islam mosque, which was made by Qutab ud din Aibak. This was the first mosque built in India. This Mosque was built with Pillars pillaged from Jain and  Hindu temples. Therefore the designs on these pillars have the motifs of lotus as well as the kalash carved on them.
In the compound of Qutab Minar one can also see the famous Iron pillar which belongs to the 4th Century AD.This has inscription in Brahmi lipi(writing). It probably belonged to the time of Chandragupta Vikramaditya. This pillar is supposed to have been brought here from Vidisha in Madhya Pradesh. This pillar is a marvel by itself as inspite of it being made of iron it has not rusted at all. It is called a marvel of ancient metallurgy of India. This pillar has now been enclosed by a screen so that people do not keep touching it.
The enclosed iron pillar.

Some of the rulers of the Slave Dynasty left their indelible mark on the History of India. Iltutmish introduced Chahalgani or Chalisa which was a group of 40 slaves who would advice the King on various matters. Was it a sort of council of advisers? Iltutmish was also the King who made Delhi his capital. Qutab ud din's capital had been  Lahore. Iltutmish also introduced the silver coin (tanka) and copper coin (jital).
Razia Sultan was the first and only woman Muslim ruler of India.
Balban was a strong ruler who introduced the spy system as an aid for administration. He also broke the power of the Chalisa and restored the power of a single ruler without aid. He was a stable ruler and ruled with an iron hand. He created a strong Army to deal with internal disturbances and keep the invaders away. He founded the Diwan-e- arz or a military department. He took up the title of Zille Ilahi or the Shadow of God.
Qutab Minar remains etched in my memory as I had visited it as a child. The view from the top was breath taking.  One was right on top of the world!
Jharokhas!

Besides that the most romantic songs of all times, "Dil ka bhanwar kare pukar, pyar ka raag suno re" was picturised inside the minar. My favourites Nutan and Dev Anand had immortalized the stairs of the Qutab Minar, at least for me.
My youngest brother Ujjwal as a baby could not pronounce “ka” We always teased him and asked him to say Qutab Minar, which he would diligently repeat as  "utur minar"!
So many memories, so much beauty, such magnificence, grandeur, all so close to me, which I had kept ignoring for so long!
Qutab Minar my friendly gigantic historical sentinel will continue to remain my personal favourite piece of History.

8 comments:

Ranjana Bharij said...

Living in Delhi now for over 40 years, I often have an urge of visiting all these historical monuments once again. Although I have seen them all as a child, the perspective and understanding then was very different from what it is today. In my case, I had visited QM in 1959 as a ten year old. Your blog has inspired me to start Red Fort, PQ, QM, JM etc as a focussed tourist.Thanks for sharing the details, Varsha!

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Satish Grover said "Lovely description !"

Chaitali Nagpal Hireker said...

Very informative and as usual very romantically written x

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Ranjana Bharij said "Living in Delhi now for over 40 years, I often have an urge of visiting all these historical monuments once again. Although I have seen them all as a child, the perspective and understanding then was very different from what it is today. In my case, I had visited QM in 1959 as a ten year old. Your blog has inspired me to start Red Fort, PQ, QM, JM etc as a focussed tourist.Thanks for sharing the details, Varsha!"

Deepak Menon said...

So glad you posted this and visited the Qutub again with a complete perspective with your family. It is a pity that many of us live in Delhi and spend years here without visiting many of the heritage sites which we pass every day - but think that we will come here another time and time passes us by. I had gone last year or the year before and spent lots of time at the Qutub - did you see the charming little movie show there too? Everything was run in the age old 'Sarkari' way and it was like stepping back a little on the ladder of time to be there. We could not go and see the cellars which they closed when we went there. There are so many more stories about the Qutub - and you can add some more pictures too - thanks for posting the blog, good old Varsha. And see that Tirloki behaves himself and does not go around climbing trees or hang gliding from the top of the Minar - just report him to me if he does that!
Take care and all the best
Deepak

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Balkee said:-Varsha,

Your blog beautifully describes a monument as beautiful. I have also seen it many times and being a civil engineer, have always wondered at the architectural design and and the structural strength of Qutub Minaret.

As for modern architecture, in Delhi itself you can visit Birla temple, Lotus temple and the recently built Swami Narayan temples for both grandeur and grace as well as functional utility.

Thanks and regards,

baalkee

Sublimation said...

I have been to Delhi 3 to 4 times.Only once when i went on a short vacation, it was just a fleeting glance of the Qutub I would call it. Reading this posting is like revisiting this monument with a full understanding of its history and its magnificence. I am experiencing Delhi sitting here in Chennai. Thanks. You have given me an idea, that I should write about the magnificent temples here in the south. I have always marvelled at the architecture. I reproduce here a stanza from one of my poems 'Rapture' which best describes what i feel:

I marvel at these men who mould,
Stones that speak of ages old,
All the fervour of their heart,
Has poured in through their supreme art.

Thanks,
gssubbu

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Vaikuntam said,"Varsha,


Read the blog very nice, very informative


Qutb Minar is a good example of the very positive side of those undemocratic times, when the King could say 'Build' and it was built.



Today it cannot be done. The dead hand of L1 (public sector) and Q3 (private sector) will make such efforts impossible. Imagine CAG asking Shah Jehan whether the proper tendering process was followed or shareholders asking him for a projected cash flow stream


Thanks again. Finally, to remember Bahadur Shah Zafar, a famous ghazal


- Vaikuntam