14TH CENTURY EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTION-HAUZ KHAS



HAUZ- E- ALAI now HAUZ- KHAS

Hauz Khas is better known today as a posh colony in South Delhi. It falls on the road leading towards Qutab Minar from AIIMS. As one goes from Aurobindo Market towards the deer park, one sees a whole lot of little structures like tombs. Almost all of them have names, have been properly restored, and have beautiful red boards with their names written neatly. These boards let us know something about the building, and are not just  blue boards of the Archeological Survey of India declaring that it is a "Protected Monument" without any description whatsoever.

WELL MAINTAINED WALKWAYS

So one fine evening I went for this walk to Hauz Khas. The village complex itself is a designer shopper’s paradise. The shops have exotic names, exotic stuff and exotic prices! We walked through this actual urbanized village and walked into the ancient Hauz Khas complex.

THE HAUZ ANOTHER VIEW

The complex is well maintained, there are nice pathways, and it was a pleasure to see a lot of people enjoying the cool breeze on a summer's evening here.

This Hauz or tank was made by Allaudin Khilji (1296 - 1316). The Khiljis came after the Mamluk or Slave dynasty.  Allaudin Khilji had established the city of Siri. That’s right, the Siri Fort complex and its neighbourhood is the location of Allaudin’s Siri.  “Siri” means head and it is said that this fort was built on the heads of  about 8000 Mongol soldiers killed by the Khiljis when the Mongols invaded. The Tank was called "Hauz- e- Alai" to begin with. After Feroze Shah Tughlak (1351-1388) re- excavated the tank and beautified the surrounding area by laying out a huge garden with lots of trees, he renamed the tank as “Hauz -  Khas”.

 

 



FEROZE SHAH'S TOMB

Feroze Shah Tughlak did not expand his territory much during his reign but  invested a lot in building madrasas, as well as  hunting palaces, a tomb for himself, repaired and got a storey added to the Qutab minar, and built the city of Ferozabad, which is presently called Feroze Shah Kotla. He also brought Ashoka's pillars to Delhi from Meerut and Topara in Ambala District

  The Madrasa at Hauz Khas was established in 1352 and was in a double storeyed building where the class rooms were on the top floor and the tutors had their living quarters on the ground floor. The madrasa was constructed in an L shape and at the vertex was the tomb of Feroze Shah Tughlak. The class rooms were open on the side of the lake and therefore the students could get a refreshing view of the lake . This madrasa was a  leading institution of Islamic learning in the Delhi Sultanate.The madrasa also had beautiful jharokhas in the style of those found in Rajasthan.

JHAROKHAS

I saw a number of people sitting in these jharokhas. Reminded me of my own days of yore, when I too had sat in these jharokhas and whiled away many a pleasant evening. The jharokhas are at a height, there are a lot of trees around, the area around the lake is almost like a forest and the hauz infront with plenty of water makes the place very beautiful, cool, refreshing and peaceful.

Sadly, most of the buildings are in ruins now. Later day rulers usually removed material from older structures to build their new buildings and forts.The material used at Hauz Khas Madarasa is grey quartzite stone which was very hard and therefore one does not find much design on the walls.

ROOF AND WALL OF FEROZE SHAH TUGHLAK'S TOMB

Feroze Shah's tomb too is quite austere. The dome on top does have certain stucco work with painted geometric patterns. The colours used are red and blue. Blue denotes the sky and red denotes wealth. The carvings are in plaster, carved and then painted. The doors of Tughlak's tomb have Hindu architecture. It is also surrounded by a boundary wall which looks like the walls normally found around  Buddhist stupas



THE BUDDHIST STUPA BOUNDARY



There are 6 smaller buildings in the gardens near the tomb and madrasa, which were perhaps tombs of the tutors of the Madrasa. There is a Masjid at the eastern side of the Madrasa. Strangely the western side in the Mosque does not have a closed wall with a mehrab(a niche facing Qibla or direction of Kaaba) as is common in most mosques.

DOMES ARE ELONGATED

The domes of the Tughlak era Hauz Khas monuments have domes which are slightly elongated at the top, they are not very round. Further around the dome midway there are  patterns like battlements

 



BATTLEMENT ON THE DOME LIKE KANGURA



The place is lovely, peaceful, calm and quiet. A lot of people sitting, chatting, gazing at the water added to the beauty of the place. A lot of groups of people simply having fun, and sending out sounds of laughter made the place feel vibrant and joyful. It was altogether a feel good place. A place to surely visit and feel the youthfulness of all the students of the 14th century and later, who spent their time here studying and surely having fun as people with the future ahead of them normally have.





TRANQUIL AND HAPPY PLACE FACING HAUZ

We left this area and went to the Deer park area. Here we saw a couple more tombs. One was quite a large one called "Bagh- e- alam- ka- gumbad". This is of the Lodi era.When we reached this tomb it had already become quite dark. We quickly looked around and noticed that inside it was pitch dark. My husband took a photo and strangely a flash of light appeared in the photograph. Hmmmm, definitely haunted, we said and ran as fast as we could.



GHOSTLY LIGHT!


This place is supposed to be a deer park, so surely deer must inhabit the place. Sadly we couldn’t spot even one. There was a place where drummers were playing their drums. It was quite jarring as this did not feel the right place for drummers. Surely no wild life would feel comfortable and safe in the loud sounds of the drums. They need peace and quiet. 

Energy, tranquility, happiness is what I was filled with after my walk at the Hauz Khas and I was also filled with concern at our interfering with the peace and tranquility needed by wild life which we are trying to preserve in the middle of a huge metropolis.

A COOL PLACE IN DELHI - THE LODI GARDENS

MOHD SHAH'S TOMB WITH GULDASTA

Summer in Delhi is hot, and nothing but hot. The evenings also are unpleasant, as even after sundown the heat wave seems to continue undisturbed.

To get some respite from the desert like dusty Delhi, I ventured into the Lodi Gardens with the Delhi Heritage Walk, one fine evening! The walk was lovely, cool and green.

The gardens are spread in 90 acres, with lovely paths, huge shady trees, a whole lot of birds inhabiting the place, and the tombs of the Sayyed and Lodi dynasty spread around. I felt as if I had arrived in paradise! These gardens were restored by the British, therefore the pattern is not like what it would have been originally during the Sultanate times, when gardens were laid out as Char baghs(four squares) with water flowing through.

I had been to these gardens on many occasions for picnics. In those days the ruins never attracted me. Those were just spots which were usually fixed as a meeting point.

As I walked this evening, I found that I could not name a single Ruler from the Sayyed dynasty!  In fact Delhi-ites learn a lot of History from the names of the Roads in the city. I could not remember any road with the name of the Sayyeds!

THE MASJID & A SUNSET

Delhi, the city which never ceased to be the Capital, except for short intervals, was established eight times they say. The Sayyed Dynasty was the fourth in the series of rulers of the Delhi Sultanate. The first was the Slave Dynasty( 1206 - 1290), then Khiljis (1290 -1320), the Tughlaks( 1320 - 1414), and then the Sayyeds( 1414 -1451). Sayyeds ruled only for 37 years. They claimed to be descendants of Prophet Mohammed.

Timur of Uzbekistan had invaded Delhi a number of times during the reign of the Tughlaks. He finally succeeded in 1398, and deputed Khizr Khan  to be Governor of Multan, but the attraction of Delhi made Khizr Khan move to Delhi. After him his son Mubarak Khan ruled. Kotla Mubarakpur near South Extension is named after this Sultan, as his tomb is located at Kotla Mubarakpur.

After the short rule of the Sayyeds, Bahlul Khan Lodi became the Sultan in 1451, and the Lodi Dynasty started. The next in line were the Mughals, followed by the British.

THE MASJID

There are three main tombs in the Gardens. The first as one enters from the gate opposite the Meteorological Office is the Tomb of Mohammad Shah, not to be mistaken with Mohd. Shah "Rangeele" of the Mughal dynasty. The Mughal Badshah lies buried in the Nizamuddin dargah premises.

This tomb is very elaborate and was built in 1444.  It has a big dome in the middle which is surrounded by eight chatris which reminds one of Rajasthani Chatris. These look like  a flower arrangement or bouquet- and are called a “guldasta”! The beauty of this tomb lies in its symmetry, the crowning lotus and decoration on the domes. It is a distinctive octagonal tomb with the central chamber encircled by a verandah which has three arched openings on each side. There are stone lintels along the arches of the verandah with the sloping buttresses at the corner. The pattern of the lotus flower is used extensively. There are eight graves inside the tomb, of which the central one is said to be the grave of Muhammad Shah, the third ruler of the Sayyed dynasty.

BADA GUMBAD...NO TOMB INSIDE

As we move further North one sees a huge structure like a tomb, but inside one finds no grave! On both sides of this Bada Gumbad are two structures. One is a mosque which is very beautiful with carvings, Persian inscription and tiles. This faces the West towards Mecca. The other side has a plain structure which was most probably used as a madrasa or perhaps a resting place for visitors. We went up this structure and were witness to a beautiful sunset! Yes indeed, in this busy City with tall buildings around there are still such sanctuaries where one can enjoy the sunset.

SHEESH GUMBAD SEEN FROM BADA GUMBAD

Nearby is the Sheesh Gumbad. This Gumbad had glazed tiles on its Gumbad and was built during the reign of Sikandar Lodi. The glazed tiles shone and therefore the name “Sheesh Gumbad”. It is not known who are buried in this tomb. The Bada Gumbad and the Sheesh Gumbad are square structures.

SIKANDAR LODI'S TOMB

As we walk further up we reach a fort like wall. Inside this is the tomb of Sikandar Lodi. This too has a big dome but the chatris are missing, therefore there is no guldasta! This tomb too is octagonal like the tomb of Mohd. Shah, and every side has three arches and a verandah around the tomb.

Although both the tombs of Sikandar Lodi and Mohd. Shah are octagonal and have covered verandas all around, I liked the tomb of Mohd. Shah more, perhaps because it is at a height and the guldasta makes the dome look very pretty. There is a certain majesty about this tomb of Mohd. Shah as it stands alone on top of a little hillock. There is a lot of work on the doorways which seem to have been borrowed from the style of structures in Rajasthan.

HINDU ART ON MOHD. SHAH'S TOMB

During the days of the Delhi Sultanate there was a cultural renaissance of sorts as there was fusion of culture of Muslim and Hindu styles in art, architecture, language and dress. In fact Hindi and Urdu too were introduced as common languages during these times.

ATHPULA

Near this tomb is a lake which was connected to the  Yamuna river. This water body led us to the “athpula bridge” (Eight pier  bridge) This was built during Akbar's time. There were beautiful water birds like ducks in the pond. We walked across the bridge and arrived at a watch tower.

Our round had been completed. The birds were chirping away noisily. It seemed as if every bird was trying to tell its own story of the day to their fellow bird members. In this cacophony of sounds I wonder who could listen to anything!

SUNSET & CACOPHONY OF BIRDS

 The majestic trees filled with chirping birds, a long line of evening walkers, a lot of children playing in the park, senior citizens sitting on benches after their walk, was a nice peaceful sight.

 Cool, Lodi Gardens, taught me a few lessons of History. Forgotten dynasties, unknown tombs, and majestic places for respite from the hot summer days of my lovely Delhi! I felt there is peace all around and all is well with the world!



HAZRAT, AULIYA, KHWAJA!

KHWAJA NIZAMUDDIN CHISHTI'S DARGAH.

Hazrat Nizammuddin was associated in my mind as only a railway station in Delhi. It was the one from where trains bound for South India departed.

Yesterday  I took a walk  with Asif Khan and discovered the different facets of this unknown area. From the moment I parked my car infront of the Police Station at Nizammuddin, I slowly started getting transported in time. I travelled to the 19th century and heard in my mind's ears,

“Ye na thi hamaari kismat ki visaale yaar hota,

agar aur jeete rahte yehi intezaar hota!”

GHALIB'S TOMB

The tomb of one of the greatest Shayar of India seems quite small as compared to his stature. It is in a large enclosure, it's in marble, there is nice lattice work, yet somehow it left me feeling that something was missing. I couldn’t identify what was missing, but the feeling that one should have got after visiting the tomb of such a great poet was not there. Asadullah Khan Ghalib was a member of the aristocracy. His grandfather had come from Uzbekistan and settled down in India.

Ghalib(1797-1869) lost his father, then his uncle and therefore at the age of thirteen he got married to Umrao Begum and became a ghar jamai. He was colloquially called Mirza Nausha. He wrote in Pharsi (Persian) which few people understood. After a long time he started writing in Urdu, a language which people could understand easily. He was quite a liberated person, who loved his wine and  lived a life without inhibitions.

"Zahid sharab peene de masjid mein beth kar,

Yaa woh jagha bata jahan Khuda nahin.."

He said let me sit and drink in the Masjid, or else let me know of the place where God is not present.

While he lived, he lived in poverty, was not as famous as he now is. He received a pension and had a tough time trying to make both ends meet.

Now, he is known all over and his couplets are quoted very freely.

Posterity will know him and recognise him. Alas! While living he didn't get his due.

STORY TELLING ON THE GATE OF A SARAI.

 As we moved on there was a hujoom(crowd) of people in front of the local Mosque. This part of Delhi remains as it must have been in the 18^th century. All the men were in kurta pajama and  white caps and were busily walking down the road, with not an inch of space for fresh air. We went up an old gate of a fort like structure. This gate was built during the Lodi Empire. It was the gate of a sarai(inn) for people who came to visit the Dargah of Nizamuddin. It was a cool, wide and interesting place. We sat like little children listening to Asif Khan narrating the story of Ghalib, like an old time daastangoii( story narrator)

A HUJOOM OF PEOPLE

We then went down a few more centuries as we went into labyrinthine gullies. There were rose petal sellers, chadar(sheet) sellers, people selling caps and everyone inviting us to leave our shoes with them. Little children were manning a number of shops. The 20th Century thought of BAN child labour came to my mind, but I quickly banished the thought, and returned to the 19th century or was it the 16^th century?

TOMB OF AMIR KHUSRO

As soon as one enters the Nizamuddin dargah, one sees the tomb of Amir Khusro. Amir Khusro(1253-1325) was a poet who wrote in Persian and also introduced the khadi boli or Hindvi. He was of Turk origin. He composed a number of riddles, which are still popular. It is also said that he introduced the tabla and the sitar. He is also credited with enriching Hindustani Classical music by introducing Persian and Arabic elements in it.  He also introduced Qawwali style of singing. He was also the originator of the Khayal and Tarana style of music. Khusro was a great disciple of Nizamuddin and died within 6 months of the Auliya’s death. 

After visiting Amir Khusro’s  tomb we moved towards the main dargah of Nizamuddin Aulia(1238-1325). He was also of Turk origin and his grand father too had come from Uzbekistan and settled in Badayun in present day UP.

PRAYERS & RED THREAD

 At that time Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq was the Emperor of Delhi. He had banned all construction work as he was getting his fort built at present day Tughlakabad.  At that time Nizamuddin was getting a hauz (water tank) made for use by his many followers and visitors. As there was a ban on construction,the workers would work for the Auliya in the night. Tughlaq was annoyed at this and banned the sale of oil, so that work would not be possible at night. But to the astonishment of everyone the workers discovered that water turned into oil and they could light lamps to continue the construction of the Baoli. Delhi has a lot of legends and stories which keep our interest alive, and make us feel great to belong to this city which was full of intrigue as well as mysticism.

It is quite amazing to see the number of people who came to India from the Middle East, Turkey, Uzbekistan, and made it their own land. We also made them our own people. What do borders actually mean? I wonder! Who belongs, who have come to settle lately, who made my city rich with their culture, poetry, and style? Who are we?

TOMB OF JAHAN ARA

The tomb of the designer of Delhi's Chandni Chowk is also located in this complex. This designer was Jahan Ara the daughter of Shah Jehan. Her tomb is not covered by stone on the top, and there is no roof too. There is only a marble screen enclosing the tomb. It is said that Jahan Ara wanted the natural elements to visit her grave, and had asked that her tomb remain without a cover on top.

BADSHAH MOHD. SHAH RANGEELE!

A later day Mughal Badshah, who gave away the Takhte Taos or the Peacock throne as well as the Kohinoor to Nadir Shah of Iran in 1793 is also buried here. This Badshah was Mohd Shah also called “Rangeele(colourful)”.

People throng the dargah of Nizammuddin, and there was a constant stream of men going in to offer flowers, chadar and their prayers. Women of course are not allowed inside the main chamber, they can look in through the lattice work. Almost all the beautiful lattice work in marble is filled with red thread. These are all applications of the people with their wishes spoken directly to the Auliya. It is said that all wishes made at this Dargah are fulfilled. Faith they say moveth mountains!

PRAYERS, ARZIAYAAN!

We then visited the famous hauz. The water was absolutely green. There were small children willing to dive in for a few rupees. Child labour again raised its head. I banished the thought again. This my dear is India where little children have to bear the burden and bring home some money to add to the meager money that their father must be earning.

After this interesting and intriguing walk down centuries, I walked out as if in a trance. It took me a while to realize that this is the 21^st century as I had travelled pretty fast from the 13^th century to 15^th, 19^th and finally 21^st Century.

I AM CAPTIVATED

It is amazing to see these pockets of places where time and style is very different. Where the dead are revered and prayers are answered. Where Ghalib the great Nausha Miyan who looked for more money and thought of his marriage as a cage where one is entrapped, is buried. Ghalib’s couplets, ghazals and writings are known to almost everyone. He was a man who lived with his head held high, but lived a life of want. Do we only recognize a person’s worth after his death?

QAWALLI SESSION

Now after going to the 14^th century and seeing all the sights, sounds and smells as they must have been then, I know and believe that Sufism, music, qawallis and ghazals will remain forever. They talk of love, peace, happiness and sukoon! These are the things that remain in the hearts of people through generations!

The Qawwals at the Dargah sang what Amir Khusro said, 

“छाप तिलक सब छीनी रे मोसे नैना मिलाइके

बात अगम कह दीनी रे मोसे नैना मिलाइके
प्रेम भटी का मदवा पिलाइके
मतवारी कर लीन्ही रे मोसे नैना मिलाइके  

“You've taken away my looks, my identity, by just a glance.

By making me drink the wine from the distillery of love,

You have intoxicated me by just a glance."

THE MAZAAR

Yes indeed Hazrat Nizamuddin is not just a train station. It is a station which takes you to your destination with peace and love, and beautiful, soulful, entrancing music! 

KASHMIRI GATE-THE MUTINY OF 1857!



Red Fort from Jamuna side.

I simply love Delhi! Dilli is the place of all the dilwallahs! There is simply no place like Delhi. It's not only yours truly who loves Delhi, but there have been many others before me and there will be many more after me who will love this city.

Delhi they say was built seven times. In the beginning there was Lal Kot and Quila Rai Pithora founded by Anangpal and Prithviraj Chauhan. Prithviraj Chauhan was defeated by Mohd Ghori in 1192. Qutubuddin Aiback his slave became ruler and developed Mehrauli, the next city. He also built the Qutab Minar.

The next city was Siri founded by Allaudin Khilji. This city is located near Hauz Khas area. The next city was Tughlakabad created by Ghiyassudin Tughlak.

Shergarh or Purana Quila was then founded by Sher Shah Suri, who wrested power from Humayun. Incidentally the GT Road or Grand Trunk road which connected the country from West to East was erected at the behest of Sher Shah Suri. This road went from Peshawar to Calcutta.

Shajehanabad or the Red Fort was erected by Shah Jehan who had already immortalised Mumtaz Mahal by making the Taj Mahal for her.

Well this little bit of history of the love of rulers for Delhi is only an aside.



NICHOLSON CEMETERY

What I want to tell you about today is the walk that I went to from the Nicholson Cemetery to the Lothian Cemetery. Between these two cemeteries lies a lot of living history. History of education, rivalry of educational institutions, the Siege of The Kashmiri Gate, the uprising of the Mutiny of 1857 and a lot more. The British magazine(arms depot), despots, White nawabs, Ochterlony, the advent of the Railway, post and telegraph, the Walled City and the Civil Lines.

 Lothian Road is an important road. The huge peepal, and neem trees in and around this road stand mute witness to the fall of the Mughal and the rise of the  British empire! They watched the lives of the Indian noblemen and the British rulers!

Nicholson cemetery is near ISBT( Inter State Bus Terminus) in Old Delhi. Brigadier General John Nicholson was instrumental in the defeat of the Indian Mutineers in 1857. Nicholson was a much loved General and was mortally wounded during the 1857 Mutiny. He was barely 34 when he died. His name was Indianised to Nikel Sain by his Indian soldiers. I call it Mutiny as the East India Company was the virtual ruler and the rebellion was against the de facto ruler. Our last Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar was actually already getting a pension from the East India Company!

This cemetery has the grave of this much loved military leader. It also has the grave of Yesudas Ramchandra  an Indian who was a teacher of Mathematics at the Delhi College, and had converted to Christianity.

ST. STEPHEN'S COLLEGE-OLD BUILDING

Interestingly, three famous colleges were located in very close proximity to each other in Kashmiri Gate area. The magnificent and haughty St Stephen's College, which was exclusively for white and Christian students.

HINDU COLLEGE-FIRST BUILDING

The Hindu College established by Shri Krishan Dass Gurwale in 1899 to enable Indian students to get higher education.  In fact in 1902 Rai Bahadur Lala Sultan Singh donated a part of his property in Kashmiri Gate for the College as without their own building the college would have had  to close down.  The third was the historic and ancient Delhi College. Legend has it that the famous poet Mirza Ghalib was offered appointment as a teacher in Delhi College. On the appointed date Mirza arrived in a palanquin. He kept waiting at the gate expecting to be welcomed by the Principal himself! When the Principal did not come to welcome him, Mirza returned home and refused to take up the assignment. Suffice to note that Mirza Ghalib was facing a lot of financial hard ships and actually was surviving on financial help provided by the Nawab of Rampur!

DARA SHIKOH'S LIBRARY

Much before the British arrived, during the 17th Century, Dara Shikoh the eldest son of Shah Jehan and the real heir to the Mughal throne was a very literate and scholarly prince. He had built a magnificent Library near the Delhi College. It was massive and contained a number of books. Dara Shikoh was executed by his brother Aurangzeb, who had already usurped the throne. After the British captured power Sir David Ochterlony, the first British Resident of Delhi, built his opulent palace above this Library.

OCHTERLONY'S RESIDENCY

 Ochterlony lived like a Nawab surrounded by khidmatgars, had 13 Indian wives, dressed like an Indian Nawab, smoked the hukka and hosted lavish nautch parties  where the Mughal Royalty too was invited. Today this building appropriately houses the office of the Archaeological Survey of India.

The city of Shahjehanabad was surrounded by a wall and even today that part of the city is called the 'Walled City' although the walls were broken down after 1857. There are only some bits and small stretches of the fortified walls still visible in some places. There were seven gates in the walls. They were the Lahore Gate, The Delhi Gate, The Ajmeri Gate, The Turkman Gate, the Mori Gate, Kashmiri  Gate, and Kabuli Gate.



KASHMIRI GATE



Kashmiri Gate had two gates side by side. One was made by the Mughals and had thin bricks, the other is said to be a replica made by the British and the bricks used by them are much bigger. Interestingly this gate was in constant use till a few years back. While travelling to the University I used to go under this gate everyday as buses too went on this road. There were marks of cannon balls on the gate and they were preserved as it was in 1857! This morning I could go up the stairs of the gate and see what the view from there was like and how thick were the walls.

Now the gate has been closed to traffic and a sort of memorial has been built there. To the north of this gate was Civil Lines where the British lived. That area was on the ridge at a height, therefore the British had an advantage and could watch all the goings on in the walled City. There is a Mutiny Memorial on the Ridge, near the Hindurao Hospital.

MAGAZINE -OPPOSITE GPO

The famous Lothian Road was the place where the arms and ammunitions of the East India Company were stored. It was called 'The Magazine'. This was right in front of the General Post Office. During the time of the Mutiny this magazine was blown up by the British themselves, so that the mutineers could not capture the arms. On the Lothian Road are also located the famous buildings of James Skinner, and St. James Church built by Skinner. Skinner was an Anglo Indian, knew excellent Persian-the court language and had founded the Skinner's Horse, a Cavalry unit of the Indian Army, which still exists.

Just next to the Railway line where it crosses the Lothian Road is the Lothian Cemetery. It is the oldest cemetery in Delhi. When the railway track was to be laid a part of the Cemetery was acquired for the railway tracks. The General Post Office, the Telegraph Office was also opened on this road. There used to be two famous book stores on this road. One was Atma Ram & sons and the other was Rajpal & sons. There used to be a famous halwai called Mithan Lal, besides the Carlton and Khyber restaurant on this road. Kashmiri Gate at one time was a posh area, as the British Officers lived here. They worshiped at the St. James Church. At the time of the Mutiny there was some bloodshed witnessed at the Church also where some British families had gathered to take shelter! Sir Thomas Metcalfe, an Agent of The East India Company, is also buried in the Churchyard of this Church. James Fraser too is buried in this Churchyard.



SKINNER'S HOUSE NEAR KASHMIRI GATE



BENGALI CLUB



On this famous road are also located a lot of Gun shops as well as Banks, and also the famous Bengali Club! This is the place where I had to send the Bank's Guard for servicing the Bank's guns and for getting the bullets etc!

Punjab National bank brought back memories of my in- laws who had their accounts and locker in the bank in the 1920's. Close by is Bela Road where my husband TNN was born and spent his childhood. In the premises of Dara Shikoh's Library was the Office where my father- in- law worked. He was then employed in the Education department of the Govt of British India. In the ruins of the Magazine TNN played with his friend Subhash almost 60 years ago. The amazing story is that they are still in touch with each other and a couple of years back they took a trip to Disneyland in LA. I was accompanying them and was amused to see their childlike excitement and thrill while taking all the rides. I guess they actually travelled back 55 years and had a whale of a time.

TNN'S FATHER'S OFFICE

Had I continued on my way south from the Lothian Cemetery I would have soon reached Red Fort and Chandni Chowk. I didn't go further on this road, as Kashmiri gate, the three colleges, the Siege of the Walled City the two oldest cemeteries of the City and St. James Church, in a day was enough for me!